
Cherry picking is a strangely addictive activity. I first discovered this over a decade ago when we moved into our current home. Our suburban property had been largely neglected, but there were several fruit trees out back, one of which turned out to be a fruiting cherry. I quickly discovered that ours were the tart variety, the kind that glow bright red, not deep burgundy, when ripe and that most people (myself included) don’t like them much eaten straight off the tree. While they are too sour for most, they make wonderful pies and jams and other things I soon discovered to my delight. I quickly found, too, how easily you grow attached to a tree; the inordinate love that something familiar and good— not necessarily impressive, but unmistakably and happily yours —can inspire. Until then, I had never thought much or understood where the term cherry picking came from; now I knew. Cherries did not grow on my tree in clusters, like I have seen them do in orchards of Bing cherry trees. Mine grew mostly in pairs, scattered among the branches. You had to look at each individual cherry before you plucked it; often a fully ripe cherry was hanging next to a paler, unready specimen–every cherry I picked was individually seen and chosen. Given the location of the tree in my yard and its average output, I was obliged to bring a ladder out back to reach most of the fruit. My husband often watched, his concern mounting, as I climbed higher and more precariously up the ladder to reach the most abundant and choicest fruit. It was a strange and mysterious summons, the calling to keep picking. I cannot fully explain what it is: the desire to reach everything, to get every piece of fruit you possibly can. It’s not a perfectionistic tendency; any reasonable person knows you cannot possibly pick all the fruit (nor would you want to, since many cherries get pecked at or split and rot on the branch). It’s something else, some deep-seated need to get it all, to reach fullness. It’s particularly striking with a tart cherry tree because so few of us are interested in eating the cherries fresh. There is no immediate gratification: you are not satisfying a true biological hunger. But as my daughter put it, every time you pick a piece, you see another beautiful cherry on another branch, urging you on. Tart cherries are particularly lovely in the sunshine: glowing little orbs, sparkling against their dark branches and green leaves, beckoning like bright berries on a tree.
We go apple picking every year, too (as does most of suburban America, as far as I can tell). I enjoy it very much, and the experience of wandering orchards with my children and friends is a lovely early-fall activity. But apple picking is much simpler and less compulsive. Apples are big, and our bags and baskets quickly fill up, without much attention or trouble. Nevertheless, the experience of fruiting trees—on your own property or someone else’s—points to something else striking: the absolutely absurd output of any fruit tree. There is always so much left over. My daughter was bothered by it the last time we went picking—there seemed to be so much waste (food waste gets to her like it does to me). I reminded her that it’s always like this—trees give so much fruit, you can never get to it all, or get to it in time. It’s always dropping off and feeding the soil or local animals or whatever is around. It’s almost comical, the disproportion between the tree’s abundance and anyone’s ability to really receive all that it bears.
Some years ago, my cherry tree died. I suspect its demise was hastened by some careless pruning a couple of landscapers did, when they trimmed the lower (and easier to reach!) branches. But the tree might not have made it anyway. Its loss set me on a committed quest to find tart cherries somewhere. My family and I had grown used to the annual cherry jam and pie and tarts and while nothing could console me for the loss of my tree, getting my hands on some of its fruit was better than nothing. I quickly discovered that tart cherries are next to impossible to buy near my home in southeastern PA, despite the abundance of local farms and a climate well-suited to cherry trees. I am friendly with some local grocers and I put in special requests for my beloved tart fruit, but to no avail. No one has confirmed my hypothesis, but it’s easy to see why sour cherries are so difficult to find: they are not at all mass-market friendly. Aside from their taste, tart cherries are small and extremely soft, making them harder and more expensive to ship. They rot much faster than Bing or Rainier cherries; they’re hard to deal with. So it’s not surprising that in our era of modern convenience, they’ve pretty much disappeared from stores. They are a funny sort of cherry, too: when I first realized how much output I got from my tree, I bought a cherry pitter. I quickly saw that it was useless on my little fruits: their flesh was so soft I could only pit them with my bare hands. They needed a human touch.
Finally, a couple of summers ago, I found a local farm that grows tart cherries, where I could pick or even buy them. So we’ve made it an annual sort of pilgrimage: the kids and I go out to the orchard in late June and get lunch and pick cherries. I focus on the tart cherries, they pick the sweet ones. The kids fight most of the way there, they sometimes argue the whole time we’re eating. But while we’re picking fruit, the animosity is temporarily suspended and life hangs happily: full, bright, and waiting to be received.





